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Counter Drill

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I’m only going to go over 1 drill in this section.

We’ll break it down into several smaller sections,
though.

Ultimately, this will be done in partners, but we’ll
start with each person’s part first.

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1.) Straight Lead with a fast In/Out footwork.
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This has to be fast. You should immediately pull back
out after the punch.

Make sure this isn’t a half-assed punch, either. You
can’t be pulling back as you punch. You won’t have any
sting at all if you do.

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2.) Slip Back with Parry (Push Stepping Back) &
immediately Push Step forward with Straight Lead.
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You’ll have to slip the head back a bit (not too much!)
while stepping back and parrying. Try not to slip the
head back too much, because it will through you off
balance and slow down the return movement.

Depending on the distance, how deep the opponent
punches, and your reaction time, you could simply slip
the head back without the footwork. But for this drill,
try to use the footwork.

You should practice both these moves individually before
you attempt the partner drill. Make sure your form is
good and that your footwork is explosive.

When doing this in partners, I suggest doing it in 2
different ways.

1.) With small foam “karate” pads. (Or 4 oz. MMA gloves)

2.) With boxing gloves & headgear.

The reason I suggest this is because boxing gloves can
be a bit cumbersome and tend to block vision.

If you use the “karate” pads, you can work more on
speed. You have to really work with your partner with
these pads on. You don’t want to go all-out!

When using the boxing gloves & headgear, you can let
loose more. Now you can really try and hit.

Remember to train safely, though. Keep your partner’s
safety in mind, always! There are times to train hard
and let loose, but it should be agreed upon before-hand
with your partner. No egos, OK???

As from the individual breakdown, one partner initiates
with the In/Out Straight Lead. The second partner
makes him miss by slipping back and immediately
countering with his own Push Step Straight Lead.

The biggest mistake made in this drill is for the partner
that starts it with the In/Out Straight Lead. If he/she
doesn’t pull out fast enough, they *will* get tagged.

So start off slow and then build speed.

Move around with this. Add your footwork. Make it
challenging.

And above all…. have fun!

_{Copyright 2003
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved}

_{(This article originally appeared in the JKD101 Newsletter: Vol. 1, Issue 3)}

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Working Evasiveness with the
Top & Bottom Bag

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Despite developing footwork, (which we’ll cover, too!)
the Top & Bottom Bag is excellent for working on
evasiveness skills such as slipping.

The tighter the cords on the bag, the faster the response.
So if you’re having trouble with the following drills,
loosen the bottom cord some.

(You don’t want to loosen the top one because it will
change the height of the bag.)

If you’re not used to working with the bag in this way,
my suggestion is to first:

1.) Enter with a Push Step footwork and Straight Lead
or Jab.

2.) Slap (Parry) the bag with the rear hand as it returns
back toward your head.

By doing this a few times first, you’ll get used to seeing
the speed & timing of the bag. It’s safe and easy to do
and will prepare you for the next set of drills.

OK. Before we move on to the drills, a note on slipping
is in order.

Slipping involves moving your head to either side to
avoid a straight blow. You can also slip straight back.

Ideally, you should be moving your head forward and
to the side at an angle.

Slipping is also a matter of timing and should be
performed as late as possible. In the beginning, you’ll
find yourself making large motions.

That’s fine. Just keep minimizing your motion to
where you can feel the bag brush your ear.

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DRILL #1
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ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP LEFT

As the bag swings back toward you after your
Straight Lead punch, slip your head to the left,
letting the bag pass by your right ear.

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DRILL #2
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ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP RIGHT

As the bag swings back toward you after your
Straight Lead punch, slip your head to the right,
letting the bag pass by your left ear.

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DRILL #3
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ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP LEFT /
SLIP RIGHT

Perform like Drill #1, but as the bag swings toward
you once more, slip to the right.

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DRILL #4
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ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP RIGHT /
SLIP LEFT

Same as Drill #3, but reverse the order of the slips.

Now we’ll add a counter punch after the Slip.

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DRILL #5
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ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP LEFT /
STRAIGHT PUNCH / PUSH STEP BACK

Catch the bag swinging back to you after your Slip
and Straight Punch. Try to immediately Push Step
back out of range. You have to be quick to beat
the bag.

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DRILL #6
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ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP RIGHT /
STRAIGHT PUNCH / PUSH STEP BACK

(If you know the Pendulum footwork, you can use
it while doing the final Straight Punch.)

Timing is the key here folks. Once you get used
to these drills, then you start focusing on slipping
at the last possible moment.

If you don’t, at least occasionally, get grazed or
hit by the bag, then you’re not really trying to
push it to the extreme of just barely missing on the slip.

Remember, the reason for the slip is to place yourself
in an advantageous position to counter the opponent.

If the opponent has committed to the punch and
you’ve made him miss by slipping the punch, your
counter (which you should always be ready to counter!)
will be much more effective.

Your opponent will be fully committed!

Now, if you’re in the habit of slipping early or with
wide head movement, the opponent has a chance to
change his movement, recover, or even set you up.

I want to add one more drill to this by using the Slip
Back.

I want you to try it 2 different ways.

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DRILL #7
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ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP BACK

First, simply sway back with your upper torso to
Slip Back from the bag.

* You may want to use your rear hand to touch or
stop the bag for safety.

Second, Push Step back with the Slip Back. This
will take some fast footwork on your part!

Have Fun!!!

_{Copyright 2003
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved}

_{(This article originally appeared in the JKD101 Newsletter: Vol. 1, Issue 2)}

I like to give credit where credit is due, so I’d like to
acknowledge the inspiration for these drills.

The suggestion to kick low, as in these drills, came from
a discussion with former Bruce Lee student - Steve
Golden. I don’t know if Mr. Golden originated this
idea, but he’s the one who put it in my head.

For those of you that aren’t familiar with the Top &
Bottom Bag, it’s the old-time boxer’s speed bag with
a cord at the top, attached to the ceiling, and a cord
at the bottom, attached to the floor.

““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““`
Although the focus of my eBook, “The JKD Lead Punch:
101 Ways to Mastery”, is on the JKD Straight Lead, I do
briefly mention this kicking method. There is also a neat
way to make a Top & Bottom Bag in the Bonus Manual,
“Easily Constructed Training Equipment” that you get
when you purchase the eBook.

““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““

I suggest that you first kick the bottom cord with a Lead
Hook Kick a few times, to get the feel of it.

( For those not familiar with JKD terminology, the Lead
Hook Kick travels the same path as a Lead Hook Punch
in boxing. Many styles call this a Round Kick. )

You don’t get any positive feedback when kicking the
cord. Most Top & Bottom Bags use an elastic cord, so
it’s a very springy feel.

Kicking it a few times will get you used to it.

You don’t need to blast through it! That’s not the point
of these drills.

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DRILL #1
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LEAD HOOK KICK TO FRONT STRAIGHT LEAD
PUNCH

You’ll start with the bag stationary.

Begin with a Lead Hook Kick to the cord using a
Shuffle footwork.

Set straight down after the kick, punching the bag
before your foot hits the floor. (This will ensure that
your bodyweight & power is transferred into the bag and
not the floor!)

* BE CAREFUL! The bag will return quickly
depending on how tightly the cords are strung. You
may have to use a Rear Parry or Slap to the bag to
prevent it from hitting you.

A variation of this would be to use a slight Pendulum
Step as you strike the bag with the Straight Lead. This
should put you out of range of the swingback of the bag.

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DRILL #2
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JAB / CROSS / FOREARM BLOCK / OBLIQUE KICK /
TIE UP / LEAD ELBOW

This one’s a little more advanced.

I don’t use the Oblique Kick that much, but I know
many of you do, so I thought I’d add it in.

(For those not familiar with the Oblique Kick, it’s
a kick off the rear leg, usually in tight with the
opponent. Without turning the hip, the rear foot
crosses past the front foot to strike the opponent’s
leg/shin with the instep. I’ve seen this kick used in
a stomping fashion as well as straight to the target.)

Start the bag swinging to & fro by grabbing the
lower cord and pulling toward you. Let go of it so
the bag swings towards and away from you.

Time the bag swinging towards you to enter with a
Jab / Cross combination.

When the bag swings back toward you after the Cross,
stick your rear forearm out horizontally to block the
bag’s swinging.

Do your Oblique Kick to the cord.

Now grab the bag with both hands, simulating a
Muay Thai or Neck & Elbow clinch.

Elbow strike with your lead elbow.

You can have some real fun with this one!

Mix it up by adding a Head Butt after the clinch.

You can also keep one hand on the bag and do
Uppercuts & Hooks - ala… Dirty Boxing.

Another idea is, after the Head Butt, simulate
thumb gouges to both eyes, then Elbow Strike.

When working on the bag like this, use your
imagination. Work your angles. Circle the bag
between each set. Mix it up. The important thing
is to treat it like an opponent. Don’t let your
guard down.

Now if you’re having trouble with simply hitting
the bag, then take your time. Work for technical
proficiency first. Then gradually mix it up.

Hope this helps or at least gives you some different
ideas for your training!

_{Copyright 2003
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved}

_{(This article originally appeared in the JKD101 Newsletter: Vol. 1, Issue 1)}