Disciples of the Dragon Seminar
The First Student/Last Student Seminar
Two legends…
Two days only…
A once in a life time experience…
Jesse Glover and Ted Wong
August 2nd & 3rd, 2008
Double Tree Inn
Chesterfield, Missouri
Please visit:
The JKD Brotherhood Website
for more information
(This review was originally written in 2004.)
Jeet Kune Do Basics
by David Cheng
Review by Kip Brockett
Tuttle Publishing has come out with a new series of books on the basics of such arts as Jeet Kune Do, Karate, and Kung Fu.
As stated by Tuttle,
“The Tuttle Martial Arts Basics series provides a complete introduction to the martial arts. Each book coaches beginning students through their first six months of practice– and beyond. They allow students to gain a thorough understanding of the martial art quickly– helping them to progress faster.”
Author David Cheng is a certified instructor under second generation Jeet Kune Do instructor Chris Kent. Mr. Cheng has also written several published articles on the art of Jeet Kune Do that have appeared in various martial arts magazines.
Enough of the background. Let’s get to the meat of the matter!
When I first gleaned through this book, I was very excited. Most martial arts “basics” books tend to have tons of pictures with little description. This book has much more description than pictures, so I was very eager to get into the detailed description of the techniques of JKD.
After I started reading, though, it quickly became apparent that much of the description was simply cursory explanations of techniques. Nothing wrong with that, just not what I expected at first glance.
The book starts out with an introduction to Jeet Kune Do and the reasons behind Bruce Lee’s creation. We are given some history, an explanation of the philosophy behind the art, and even an examination of the various branches that exist today.
Next we’re informed as to what to expect when first joining a JKD school. How to choose a teacher/school, what to expect in the first few months, and how to train safely in the art.
After that, we jump right into the art itself. The stance, footwork, and basic tools are explained with examples given as to their uses.
Next are the “5 Ways of Attack” as written by Bruce Lee. Each way is explained with possible scenarios given. This is one place where it gets a little monotonous. Offered are many possible uses, but to a beginner, I believe most of these explanations will go beyond their ability to imagine the outcomes. There are very few pictures to illustrate what the author is describing, so I think much will be lost on the novice and very possibly, on the advanced as well.
Tactical considerations are discussed next. Things such as defenses, counterattacks, distance, timing, and rhythm. Sparring is also discussed in this section. Some good ideas on different sparring situations are given here. Breakdowns such as “Lead Hand vs. Lead Hand”, “Lead Hand vs. Both Hands”, etc. Nothing unique, but some good ideas for beginners to use in their training.
And to finish up, Mr. Cheng discusses how to advance in Jeet Kune Do. Elements such as setting goals, establishing a training program, and the phase development used by Dan Inosanto.
In my final analyses, this book can serve as a very good reference to supplement your training if you’re training with a Jeet Kune Do instructor or belong to a school. It can help you to see the bigger picture of the art with the various aspects of training. It can give you ideas of what to look for in your future training, what things to consider while working on your basics, and give you ideas of things that will help if you train outside of your school with classmates.
But if you have no background in Jeet Kune Do and do not have access to an instructor or school, I don’t think this book will help you that much. It will definitely give you ideas on things to train, but without the knowledge and details given by a qualified instructor, the material is too general to really help you.
In all fairness to Mr. Cheng, I believe the book was written for the purpose of a supplement to the guidance of qualified instruction and not as a “Learn JKD in 30 Days” type of book. I just want to point out this fact, as I know many will think that from the title, “Jeet Kune Do Basics”, that it is a “how-to” book.
That being said, there are many sources out there that do give you the details needed if you don’t have access to an instructor. In that case, this book could be a very good supplement to those resources as well.
As a supplement to help the beginning student who has qualified instruction and to help them gain a perspective of the bigger picture of JKD, I think this book serves its purpose well.
October 2004
Copyright 2004
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved
***********************************
Counter Drill
***********************************
I’m only going to go over 1 drill in this section.
We’ll break it down into several smaller sections,
though.
Ultimately, this will be done in partners, but we’ll
start with each person’s part first.
=======================================
1.) Straight Lead with a fast In/Out footwork.
=======================================
This has to be fast. You should immediately pull back
out after the punch.
Make sure this isn’t a half-assed punch, either. You
can’t be pulling back as you punch. You won’t have any
sting at all if you do.
=======================================
2.) Slip Back with Parry (Push Stepping Back) &
immediately Push Step forward with Straight Lead.
=======================================
You’ll have to slip the head back a bit (not too much!)
while stepping back and parrying. Try not to slip the
head back too much, because it will through you off
balance and slow down the return movement.
Depending on the distance, how deep the opponent
punches, and your reaction time, you could simply slip
the head back without the footwork. But for this drill,
try to use the footwork.
You should practice both these moves individually before
you attempt the partner drill. Make sure your form is
good and that your footwork is explosive.
When doing this in partners, I suggest doing it in 2
different ways.
1.) With small foam “karate” pads. (Or 4 oz. MMA gloves)
2.) With boxing gloves & headgear.
The reason I suggest this is because boxing gloves can
be a bit cumbersome and tend to block vision.
If you use the “karate” pads, you can work more on
speed. You have to really work with your partner with
these pads on. You don’t want to go all-out!
When using the boxing gloves & headgear, you can let
loose more. Now you can really try and hit.
Remember to train safely, though. Keep your partner’s
safety in mind, always! There are times to train hard
and let loose, but it should be agreed upon before-hand
with your partner. No egos, OK???
As from the individual breakdown, one partner initiates
with the In/Out Straight Lead. The second partner
makes him miss by slipping back and immediately
countering with his own Push Step Straight Lead.
The biggest mistake made in this drill is for the partner
that starts it with the In/Out Straight Lead. If he/she
doesn’t pull out fast enough, they *will* get tagged.
So start off slow and then build speed.
Move around with this. Add your footwork. Make it
challenging.
And above all…. have fun!
Copyright 2003
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved
(This article originally appeared in the JKD101 Newsletter: Vol. 1, Issue 3)
***********************************
Fancy Footwork ‘Which Way is Best?’
***********************************
We’ve all heard that footwork is “everything” in JKD.
Right?
But what kind of footwork?
Obviously there are many types. Footwork that’s,
- smooth & dance-like
- explosive
- plodding
- bouncing & Muhammad Ali-like
just to name a few.
One of my all-time favorite boxers is Sugar Ray Robinson.
He had the best footwork, by far, of any boxer I’ve seen,
in my opinion.
He bounced and used rhythm when on the outside, gliding
in and out with that lightning jab.
But on the inside, he settled down and delivered powerful
punches.
He had a combination of footwork that served his style
of boxing well.
I’d like to examine 2 well-known JKD personalities and
the styles of footwork they use. They’re very different in
their approach and movement, which makes for a great
comparison and contrast.
Ted Wong, Bruce Lee’s last major private student and
considered by many to teach the purest strain of JKD
as taught by Bruce Lee before his death.
And Joe Lewis, the heavyweight kickboxing champion
and owner of Joe Lewis Karate Systems, who was also a
private student of Bruce Lee.
First, let’s look at Ted Wong.
Ted Wong’s footwork is smooth as silk, almost
dance-like. Although there is explosiveness and speed
involved, there is an obvious lack of ‘jerky-ness’ to his
movements.
He has some of the best footwork I’ve ever seen. It is,
quite frankly, a beautiful thing to watch.
At nearly 65 years of age, he moves with the grace and
speed of someone a third of his age, but who has also
spent 30 or more years honing his skills.
Joe Lewis’s footwork, on the other hand, is explosive.
Almost the complete opposite of Ted Wong’s footwork.
The emphasis is the blast of power to quickly bridge the
gap with power and ferocity.
The power in Joe Lewis’s movements are clearly evident.
Joe Lewis is a heavyweight, but his movements are
quick as a lightweight. Of course, with heavyweight
power!
Which is the best way to train?
Well… I don’t know.
I don’t like the “this is better than that” type of
approach to martial arts.
It may be more appropriate to say, “this is better for
me than that.” At least, as it pertains to each
individual’s goals, body type, personal style, etc.
In my own training, being an avid student of Ted
Wong, I try to emulate his footwork. I work on the
smoothness of movement that he exhibits.
I also incorporate the explosiveness and many of the
drills that Joe Lewis teaches.
I don’t have the same body type or fighting style that
either of these gentlemen have, so I try to adapt their
teachings to fit me.
I strive to find the balance that Sugar Ray Robinson
possessed. But always with Kip Brockett in mind! 
Copyright 2003
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved
(This article originally appeared in the JKD101 Newsletter: Vol. 1, Issue 3)
Here’s another book recommendation. This one is a classic and is responsible for many inside & outside JKD to change their approach to martial arts training. Myself included.
A collection of notes, it serves as a glimpse into the mind of the late, great Bruce Lee.
I was browsing back through Sun Tzu’s Art of War and after reading the chapter “Attack by Strategem”, I came across his 5 essentials for victory.
The first one caught my attention. I have read it numerous times before, but I started thinking about how it could be applied in everyday training. I also tried to think about other applications on different levels.
“He will win who knows when to fight and when not to fight.”
The obvious first level of this can be seen as simply choosing the battles you fight. As an example, let’s take a self-defense situation where it is assumed the attacker has a weapon, but you’re not sure. You are not armed. You may choose not to fight. The best solution may be the “flight” instinct and not the “fight”.
But let’s take this a little deeper.
Let’s say you are working your punching techniques by doing some competitive sparring. Choosing when to fight and when not to fight is not so clear cut, but still very relevant.
To borrow from Joe Lewis, you don’t want to attack someone when they are “set”. When someone is “set”, they are planted and have you in their line of fire. They are basically just waiting for you to get into range so they can attack. This is called their Set Point. (For more information on “Set Point Control” see the link below to Joe Lewis’ DVD, now titled “Control the Firing Line”.)
So, what we want to do is choose when we want to fight. We may use our footwork to set him up. Make him move his Set Point first and then catch him between Set Points. This way we are choosing when we want to fight and when we do not want to fight.
Let’s take this to the grappling realm.
When you are grappling someone bigger and stronger than you, then you have to be very selective as to when you fight and when you do not fight. Otherwise, you will exhaust yourself through fruitless effort.
So in a way, we are choosing our battles constantly as we evolve as martial artists. In order for us to be efficient, this process has to take place.
Let’s take it one step further.
In our daily training, don’t we also choose when to fight? We choose when to train hard or to keep it light. We choose the type of techniques we will train. We choose IF we are going to train or not.
So in a sense, aren’t we deciding on whether to fight our weaknesses, or not fight them and strengthen our strengths?
Copyright 2008
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved
Teri Tom has written an excellent book on the Straight Lead punch. She’s a long-time student of Ted Wong and it shows in this book.
Those familiar with Ted Wong’s teachings will find a most valuable resource and study guide. Those unfamiliar with his teachings will find a great introduction to the principles & techniques that Bruce Lee was working on near the end of his life.
Bottom line…
Teri Tom has done her research. And she has documented the resources every step of the way.
***********************************
Working Evasiveness with the
Top & Bottom Bag
***********************************
Despite developing footwork, (which we’ll cover, too!)
the Top & Bottom Bag is excellent for working on
evasiveness skills such as slipping.
The tighter the cords on the bag, the faster the response.
So if you’re having trouble with the following drills,
loosen the bottom cord some.
(You don’t want to loosen the top one because it will
change the height of the bag.)
If you’re not used to working with the bag in this way,
my suggestion is to first:
1.) Enter with a Push Step footwork and Straight Lead
or Jab.
2.) Slap (Parry) the bag with the rear hand as it returns
back toward your head.
By doing this a few times first, you’ll get used to seeing
the speed & timing of the bag. It’s safe and easy to do
and will prepare you for the next set of drills.
OK. Before we move on to the drills, a note on slipping
is in order.
Slipping involves moving your head to either side to
avoid a straight blow. You can also slip straight back.
Ideally, you should be moving your head forward and
to the side at an angle.
Slipping is also a matter of timing and should be
performed as late as possible. In the beginning, you’ll
find yourself making large motions.
That’s fine. Just keep minimizing your motion to
where you can feel the bag brush your ear.
===========
DRILL #1
===========
ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP LEFT
As the bag swings back toward you after your
Straight Lead punch, slip your head to the left,
letting the bag pass by your right ear.
===========
DRILL #2
===========
ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP RIGHT
As the bag swings back toward you after your
Straight Lead punch, slip your head to the right,
letting the bag pass by your left ear.
===========
DRILL #3
===========
ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP LEFT /
SLIP RIGHT
Perform like Drill #1, but as the bag swings toward
you once more, slip to the right.
===========
DRILL #4
===========
ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP RIGHT /
SLIP LEFT
Same as Drill #3, but reverse the order of the slips.
Now we’ll add a counter punch after the Slip.
===========
DRILL #5
===========
ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP LEFT /
STRAIGHT PUNCH / PUSH STEP BACK
Catch the bag swinging back to you after your Slip
and Straight Punch. Try to immediately Push Step
back out of range. You have to be quick to beat
the bag.
===========
DRILL #6
===========
ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP RIGHT /
STRAIGHT PUNCH / PUSH STEP BACK
(If you know the Pendulum footwork, you can use
it while doing the final Straight Punch.)
Timing is the key here folks. Once you get used
to these drills, then you start focusing on slipping
at the last possible moment.
If you don’t, at least occasionally, get grazed or
hit by the bag, then you’re not really trying to
push it to the extreme of just barely missing on the slip.
Remember, the reason for the slip is to place yourself
in an advantageous position to counter the opponent.
If the opponent has committed to the punch and
you’ve made him miss by slipping the punch, your
counter (which you should always be ready to counter!)
will be much more effective.
Your opponent will be fully committed!
Now, if you’re in the habit of slipping early or with
wide head movement, the opponent has a chance to
change his movement, recover, or even set you up.
I want to add one more drill to this by using the Slip
Back.
I want you to try it 2 different ways.
===========
DRILL #7
===========
ENTER WITH STRAIGHT LEAD / SLIP BACK
First, simply sway back with your upper torso to
Slip Back from the bag.
* You may want to use your rear hand to touch or
stop the bag for safety.
Second, Push Step back with the Slip Back. This
will take some fast footwork on your part!
Have Fun!!!
Copyright 2003
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved
(This article originally appeared in the JKD101 Newsletter: Vol. 1, Issue 2)
I like to give credit where credit is due, so I’d like to
acknowledge the inspiration for these drills.
The suggestion to kick low, as in these drills, came from
a discussion with former Bruce Lee student - Steve
Golden. I don’t know if Mr. Golden originated this
idea, but he’s the one who put it in my head.
For those of you that aren’t familiar with the Top &
Bottom Bag, it’s the old-time boxer’s speed bag with
a cord at the top, attached to the ceiling, and a cord
at the bottom, attached to the floor.
““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““`
Although the focus of my eBook, “The JKD Lead Punch:
101 Ways to Mastery”, is on the JKD Straight Lead, I do
briefly mention this kicking method. There is also a neat
way to make a Top & Bottom Bag in the Bonus Manual,
“Easily Constructed Training Equipment” that you get
when you purchase the eBook.
““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““
I suggest that you first kick the bottom cord with a Lead
Hook Kick a few times, to get the feel of it.
( For those not familiar with JKD terminology, the Lead
Hook Kick travels the same path as a Lead Hook Punch
in boxing. Many styles call this a Round Kick. )
You don’t get any positive feedback when kicking the
cord. Most Top & Bottom Bags use an elastic cord, so
it’s a very springy feel.
Kicking it a few times will get you used to it.
You don’t need to blast through it! That’s not the point
of these drills.
===========
DRILL #1
===========
LEAD HOOK KICK TO FRONT STRAIGHT LEAD
PUNCH
You’ll start with the bag stationary.
Begin with a Lead Hook Kick to the cord using a
Shuffle footwork.
Set straight down after the kick, punching the bag
before your foot hits the floor. (This will ensure that
your bodyweight & power is transferred into the bag and
not the floor!)
* BE CAREFUL! The bag will return quickly
depending on how tightly the cords are strung. You
may have to use a Rear Parry or Slap to the bag to
prevent it from hitting you.
A variation of this would be to use a slight Pendulum
Step as you strike the bag with the Straight Lead. This
should put you out of range of the swingback of the bag.
===========
DRILL #2
===========
JAB / CROSS / FOREARM BLOCK / OBLIQUE KICK /
TIE UP / LEAD ELBOW
This one’s a little more advanced.
I don’t use the Oblique Kick that much, but I know
many of you do, so I thought I’d add it in.
(For those not familiar with the Oblique Kick, it’s
a kick off the rear leg, usually in tight with the
opponent. Without turning the hip, the rear foot
crosses past the front foot to strike the opponent’s
leg/shin with the instep. I’ve seen this kick used in
a stomping fashion as well as straight to the target.)
Start the bag swinging to & fro by grabbing the
lower cord and pulling toward you. Let go of it so
the bag swings towards and away from you.
Time the bag swinging towards you to enter with a
Jab / Cross combination.
When the bag swings back toward you after the Cross,
stick your rear forearm out horizontally to block the
bag’s swinging.
Do your Oblique Kick to the cord.
Now grab the bag with both hands, simulating a
Muay Thai or Neck & Elbow clinch.
Elbow strike with your lead elbow.
You can have some real fun with this one!
Mix it up by adding a Head Butt after the clinch.
You can also keep one hand on the bag and do
Uppercuts & Hooks - ala… Dirty Boxing.
Another idea is, after the Head Butt, simulate
thumb gouges to both eyes, then Elbow Strike.
When working on the bag like this, use your
imagination. Work your angles. Circle the bag
between each set. Mix it up. The important thing
is to treat it like an opponent. Don’t let your
guard down.
Now if you’re having trouble with simply hitting
the bag, then take your time. Work for technical
proficiency first. Then gradually mix it up.
Hope this helps or at least gives you some different
ideas for your training!
Copyright 2003
Kip Brockett
All Rights Reserved
(This article originally appeared in the JKD101 Newsletter: Vol. 1, Issue 1)
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